Garage door opener is completely dead
No sound and no light usually means the opener isn't getting power, and the first three things to check cost nothing. If power is fine, the logic board or the capacitor has failed, commonly after a power surge, and that's $185 to $390. Once a board costs close to a new unit, replacement is the better value and we'll say so.
Check these first
Two minutes, no tools, and sometimes it's the whole answer.
- Check the outlet. Openers are frequently on a GFCI outlet that has tripped, and the reset button is on the outlet itself.
- Check the breaker panel.
- Check that the opener is actually plugged in. Ceiling outlets get bumped by ladders and storage.
- Try the wall button as well as the remote. If the wall button works, the fault is the remotes or the receiver rather than the opener.
- Look for a burnt smell around the motor head, which points to the board or the capacitor.
What not to do while you wait
- Don't open the motor housing. The capacitor can hold a charge after the unit is unplugged.
- Don't assume it's the remote until you've tried the wall button.
What it usually turns out to be
- Tripped GFCI or breaker The most common cause and the cheapest. Worth checking twice before calling anybody.
- Failed logic board Boards commonly fail after a power event. PG&E outages and surges are the usual trigger, and the symptom is a unit that is simply dead.
- Failed capacitor The motor may hum without turning, or do nothing at all.
- Failed transformer Less common, and it takes the light and the wall control with it.
What it costs
$185 to $390 for board, capacitor or transformer replacement. The diagnostic visit is $39 and it comes off that in full when you go ahead the same visit. Full detail on the garage door opener repair page, and every other range we charge is on the cost page.
Where we cover
Newark, Fremont, Union City, Hayward, with Hayward limited to 94545 and 94544 in the south of the city. Call before noon and Newark, Fremont and Union City are same-day appointments. The areas we cover, in detail.
Questions we get asked
It died right after a power cut. Is that a coincidence?
Usually not. Logic boards fail after surges, and a cut followed by a reconnection is exactly that kind of event. If you're replacing the unit, that's also a reason to want the battery backup that California requires on new installations.
How do I get my car out in the meantime?
Pull the red emergency release cord with the door closed, then lift the door by hand. If it's heavy, stop, because that means a spring problem on top of the opener problem.
Other things doors do
- Garage door won't close Almost always the safety sensors.
- Garage door won't open If it feels heavy, it's the spring.
- Garage door spring broke The bang was the spring letting go.
- Opener runs but the door doesn't move The trolley or the drive gear.
- Garage door remote or keypad stopped working Battery, programming, or a light bulb.
Tell us what it's doing
(510) 509-9998. If a car is shut inside, say so first and we'll book you ahead of the queue.
Newark · Fremont · Union City · Hayward